Gillian Thrum, Author at The Green Door

Posts by: Gillian Thrum

May 292017 Tagged with Daphne, Gentian, orchids, somiedo, Spain — 0 Responses

On the last day of our stay in Pola de Somiedo we drove the 20km up to the pass La Farrapona 1700m asl. An easy way to get to the higher alpine pastures I must say. After a short walk down hill we were rewarded with a view of this huge alpine lake. Surrounding the lake were banks and banks of bright blue Gentian, Primula, Anemone and alpine Daphne to name just a few. It was freezing… but well worth it. I donned my Hilda Ogden scarf and set out around the lake to see what I could find and came across drifts of sweet little yellow orchids in full flower. What a treat for our last day.

May 292017 Tagged with gardens, hiking, Potes, Spain, walking — 0 Responses

North to Potes, Cantabria

From Montesinho, northern Portugal we moved through the rain to the mountains of Potes. We couldn’t complain as this was the first rain we had experienced in over a month.

From the sparse mountains of Montesinho, over the border just ten minutes away, we travelled through countryside that looked very much like Waiouru! Bare with only a few settlements and lots of gorse. This soon gave way to rivers and green hillsides.

After a hot meal en route we came across fields and fields of wild daffodils just below Riano. Not just little miniature alpine Daffs like we had seen on our hikes, but quite large ones similar to what we would grow in our gardens at home in New Zealand. How amazing. The rain didn’t keep us in the car long! I’m sure the locals thought we were completely mad – but then that wouldn’t be the first time.

Potes turned out to be all it said in the guide books. The perfect base for exploring the east side of the Picos. We were here four nights and could easily have stayed seven if the weather had been better. Luckily the next morning dawned fine, sunny and slightly warmer. We drove to the Fuente De chair lift just before 9am – it’s only 20mins drive from Potes – and found ourselves the only ones there apart from the staff. What a huge bonus. We were the first on the mountain and had it all to ourselves! Gentians greeted us the minute we left the buildings and by the time we had completed the short climb to the top the day was perfect and not a breath of wind. So, so, so lucky.

The next five hours were spent drifting down the mountainside tripping from one patch of alpine flowers to the next, occasionally taking a breath to enjoy the splendour of the soaring peaks around us.

May 292017 0 Responses

West to Somiedo

From one side of the Picos Mountains to the other. The grand granite peaks of the eastern side to the lush, wood covered mountains on the west. We moved on in search of more plants at slightly lower altitudes – or so we thought.

The road north and then east to Somiedo was absolutely gorgeous. From the grand and rather stark mountains of the Picos area we drove through lush valleys with cows and calves out enjoying the sunshine. Spain has a LOT of rivers. The wildflowers were covering the roadsides and many areas reminded us of England. Not the Spain we had experienced further south and an enormous contrast to our trip to Andalucia several years ago. Contrast – Otago to Cambridge, NZ. However – Cambridge with the Southen Alps thrown in.

We had chosen Pola de Somiedo as a base for the next four days. It proved to be perfect with many, many walks starting nearby. The whole Somiedo area is laced with walking tracks which are very well signposted. The largest village in the area with a good range of accomodation and restaurants/bars. Many weren’t open this early in the season – mid May – but enough to give us a bit of choice.

For us it was all about the plants we could find and this was the main reason for swapping locations. We had no idea that this valley was going to be so lush and beautiful with all the mountains of Potes, but heavily treed. Alpine lakes could easily be reached by car also. Wonderful!

May 052017 0 Responses

Montesinho – in the Portuguese mountains

Next stop was this mountain town only minutes from the Spanish border. Montesinho was Portugal’s last chance to shine in the plant hunting department! Portugal hasn’t been forthcoming with a raft of amazing plants. Here and there we have scored some good ones but nothing like our trip to Croatia/Slovenia/Italian mountains.

Portugal is very much like Spain but with less plant variety we have found. That is not to say that the countryside isn’t stunning – we’ve loved every area we’ve visited – but the plant range has been narrow. There’s only so many mountain ranges of white cistus, purple lavender, white and yellow broom and pink Erica you can be thrilled about. The extent of the lavender is incredible and during April to mid May it is in full flower and really it is an amazing scene with huge drifts up the road sides. Pink and white Thrift (Armeria) too have been wonderful. But precious plants have been few and far between.

Montesinho gave us the cutest little pale daffodil (N. triandrus) growing amongst the rocks at 1,500m, enormous pink Orchids and the rich blue of perennial forget-me-not – Omphalodes beside the streams. As this is one of my most favourite plants it was a thrill to find.

The remote slate roof villages in this area are well worth the drive. Many are mentioned in the Lonely Planet as being in a time warp. Certainly the village that straddles the Portuguese and Spanish borders is one – Rio de Onor – set on a river we saw men scything the grass and ploughing with horses in the large communal vegetable growing area. Yes – any woman I saw was wearing black. I’m not sure they were all widows as suggested, but black hasn’t gone out of fashion in Rio de Onor for quite a few centuries!

Montesinho is a village of 45 souls – they share communal vege growing areas and most are well into their 70’s and over. Set in a high valley (1200m) surrounded by groves of edible Chestnuts and above that wide hillsides covered in sweetly scented white flowering broom.

We had a day driving around similar villages and were treated with the sight of the huge Transmontano dogs guarding and moving the sheep. Wolves have been reintroduced into these mountainous areas and to stop the villagers from shooting them (as they would obviously eat the sheep) – These dogs have been reintroduced to many areas in a Government initiative to protect the wolves. After the wolves were reintroduced the Villagers were offered free puppies. The puppies are brought up with the sheep and consider themselves part of the flock – hence they are happy to stay all day with their mates and protect them from predators. It’s interesting the bits and pieces you learn of the local way of life as you travel around.

In this old village we stayed with a Dutchman – Robert – who has been here for the last 13 years doing up his hotel A Lagosta Perdida which was a complete ruin. It is 800 yrs old, so had seen better times. It now has 6 gorgeous bedrooms and every night you are treated to a beautiful meal cooked by Robert himself. He also has a few paddocks in nearby Franca where 13 lucky rescue horses are living out happy retirements. It’s been a joy to take a rest and enjoy our last few days in Portugal in this timeless, peaceful village. Tomorrow we go north to Spain and the Picos mountains.

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